Malagasy Sambirano Review

Typical price:

£3.29

We like:

The discernible difference between the silky Mora Mora and more hardcore sister Sambirano; the Equitrade ethos; the growing availability; the packaging -- open it up and it tells the story of the bar

We don't like:

The price -- someone's got to pay for equitable trade and we're happy to do so, but at £3.29 for 85g, it's an occasional treat

SmartPlanet judgement:

A high-quality product at a justifiably high price, this is grown-up chocolate. Choose this bitter-smooth Sambirano to serve with coffee or the more populist Mora Mora on its own or grated over hot milk.

Score:

Contact:

Nice Car Company at http://www.malagasy.co.uk
Telephone: +44 (0)845 094 3827

Malagasy produces coffee, infused teas, salt and pepper in Madagascar, but its chocolate has been getting most of the attention. That's little wonder when it has the support of the online bean maestros at seventypercent.com. Malagasy also founded the Equitrade initiative and it's crucial to the company that its chocolate is produced and packed in the country of origin. Benefits run from fair prices and a protected growing environment to better expertise and technology, which stays on the island.

There's a lot of single origin chocolate about -- grown in one region or plantation -- but much depends on the way it's processed. Malagasy's tastes like it's done with care and without the burnt or rubbery qualities that can plague some brands.

All products that carry the Equitrade mark are subject to its auditing process, developed in conjunction with Manchester Business School. Equitrade licensees are required to prove that they've invested directly in a developing nation, as well as providing resources there. They have to give a clear outline of its environmental practices -- the main benefit with Malagasy chocolate is that it's exported as a finished product, meaning energy is not expended on transporting cacao that will become waste.

As well as this Sambirano bar, there's the Mora Mora -- both are blends of the Criollo, Trinitario and Forastero beans grown on the island. The Sambirano bar, however, uses only beans from the valley of the same name, and from a particular season -- so chocolate geeks get to enjoy the flavour's potential changes from year to year depending on the crop.

Malagasy chocolate is not organic, although some of the plots used to grow the cocoa beans are certified by French accreditation system Ecocert, and Malagasy hopes this number will rise. There isn't much more that's green about Malagasy -- renewable energy isn't a viable option in Madagascar, so it would be a nice gesture if Malagasy offset its business travel.

The Mora Mora, which is 73 per cent cocoa solids, is fruity and easier to love on first encounter. As it melts, it tastes clean and simple, with its darker notes developing last. The Sambirano is only slightly darker at 75 per cent cocoa solids but smells and tastes much more intense, and though the back of the packet says wood and coffee, we're thinking cigars. Both melt smoothly and evenly, but it might be a waste to cook with either bar. Instead, smash them up and bring the bits out after dinner.

Score breakdown:

 

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