Posted: 06 February 2008 by SmartPlanet
This sea salt caramel fudge slips neatly into Burnt Sugar's stylish, temptingly packaged range. Fashionable caramel confections are rarely seen without a sprinkling of sea salt these days, since sodium intensity is supposed to highlight caramel flavours. In this case it doesn't quite work -- a bolder hand is needed with the salt -- but there's still plenty to recommend it.
The tub releases a fantastic sweet-shop aroma when it's opened and the fudge is in the crumbly, rough-edged tradition -- if you prefer yours soft and malleable, look elsewhere. It's a dark, handsome colour, the rich brown of a St Tropez fake tan, and once you know there's clotted cream in there, you can taste it next to the toasty butter notes.
Burnt Sugar's production methods -- small batches beaten thoroughly in copper pans -- make for a product that's head and shoulders above the average sweet-shop fudge, but the company's ethical philosophy also marks them out. Since early 2007 it's used unrefined Fairtrade sugar from the West Kenyan WEKO co-operative, and has a 'book club' collaboration with Book Aid International, which sends books to developing countries in sub-Saharan Africa.
It also ships its sugar by sea and carbon offsets with CO2 Balance, funding an energy-efficient light bulb project in Kenya. We're not mad keen on carbon offsetting, but at least it's trying. Though the Burnt Sugar website makes mention of responsible packaging -- the tub lids are now card rather than plastic -- there's no recycling mark on the burnished tub. The company says it uses some recycled materials and a minimum of plastics in packaging, but since the lid does look like plastic it'd be nice to have some guidance when your hand's hovering uncertainly over the recycling bin.
Quality
Value
Ethics
Green
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