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Designers: the debate against knock-offs is worth it

By | May 30, 2012, 3:30 AM PDT

Was the iconic Eames lounge chair ever officially available in tweed?

A chair is a chair. Or is it? When one chair costs thousands of dollars and bears the name of a revered designer, is it worth more than another seat that looks an awful lot like the expensive one with the fancy label? What if, when you sit in either one, they are equally as comfortable–on the body and on the eyes?

Product designers and, perhaps even more powerfully, respected design magazines are escalating the debate against knock-offs. In the article “The Real Cost of Ripoffs,” published in the June 2012 print issue of Dwell magazine, Deputy Editor Jaime Gillin breaks down why original design is so darn expensive. It’s worth the investment, she argues, because it is just that: an investment in design as an industry, as well as in the research and development efforts of individual designers and manufacturers.

She writes:

“…a percentage of your purchase goes back to the designer, who reinvests it into her business, her next idea. In order to take risks and innovate—and, indeed, to make a living—a designer needs to profit from her successes. Same with manufacturers—they need money to contract and promote designers’ work and to keep their production quality high. This is the basic premise of how the design industry works, at least when all goes well.

Enter knockoffs, to blow this balanced ecosystem to bits. Some enterprising person sees a popular design and gets dollar (or euro, or yuan) signs in their eyes. It’s relatively easy to ship a piece overseas to be reverse engineered and manufactured inexpensively. Labor costs are low and it’s simple to swap cheaper materials and compromise on quality. Maybe they tweak the dimensions or add a small new flourish in order to improve their chances of getting away with it.”

Beautiful, comfortable--but if a knock-off, its sale may arguably divert funds from design R&D

But Gillin and Dwell aren’t stopping there. Gillin also wrote a companion blog post in which ten design-world luminaries voice their opinions on the topic. She plans on expanding on this post in coming weeks, too, offering more quotes that couldn’t fit in the print story. Not surprisingly, the overwhelming sentiment is to rally against copycats. But the rationales are insightful for the most part and worth reading–if anything for peeking behind the curtain of the elite design world.

“With knockoffs there are no designers, no legal fees…[and] when people buy a product, we pay a royalty fee to the designer,” Antoine Roset, vice president of Ligne Roset USA, the upscale furniture maker owned by his family, is quoted in Gillen’s blog post. “We pay designers because we respect designers. When you buy a knockoff, you say: I don’t care how it’s made, I just care that it’s cheap.”

On a somewhat positive note, lighting designer Lindsey Adelman noted that “If it’s an independent designer [copying your design] you think, maybe them imitating my work is along their path of development as a designer. You encouraged them to develop their own path and voice. That’s cool, it’s not threatening. It’s different if it’s a corporation like West Elm; that feels lazy and bad.”

Perhaps some of the most intriguing and philosophical context comes from Eames Demetrios, grandson of legendary husband-and-wife designers Charles and Ray Eames. Demetrios is the director of the Eames Office in Santa Monica, CA. “If you look at the cost of living and the cost of the Eames lounge chair, it’s basically the same cost today as it was in 1956,” Demetrios, of exquisite design provenance himself, is quoted in the Dwell blog post. “It’s just that other objects around us are cheaper and better today. I’m not even saying it’s bad; it’s just that people have an expectation that everything should be cheaper and better.”

Demetrios and Gillin will also take part in a conversation on the topic along with Gregg Buchbinder, president and CEO of chair maker Emeco on June 24 in Los Angeles at the Dwell on Design Conference. If all this seems like quite a large effort around a magazine story, it is. But it can be justified as a campaign to defend original design in the U.S.

It’s not without precedent. Consider that Just last week, the U.K. government changed its copyright laws to give designers of manufactured goods the same long-term protection that artists and writers have received for their original work in that nation. This was less than two months after Michelle Ogundehin, the editor-in-chief of interior design magazine ELLE Decoration U.K. launched a petition to increase copyright protection for design, extending it to 70 years after the death of the author or authors–equal to art and literature–and up from 25, the former duration for designers. Star designers such as Sir Terence Conran, who was vocal in the ELLE Decoration U.K. campaign, have spoken out praising the updated law.

“By protecting new designs more generously, we are encouraging more investment of time and talent in British design. That will lead to more manufacturing in Britain, and that in turn will lead to more jobs – which we desperately need right now,” Conran was quoted in a statement from the U.K. Design Council. “Properly protected design can help make the U.K. a profitable workshop again.”

Of course, it’s hard to make direct cause-and-effect correlations between public statements by design experts and magazine editors and how governments and consumers value design. But to designers, the debate against knock-offs is clearly one worth making–especially in terms of contextualizing the high prices of original design as, essentially, micro-investments in R&D and even in national economies.

Images: So Sylvie/Flickr; super-structure/Flickr

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Reena Jana

About Reena Jana

Reena Jana was a contributing editor for SmartPlanet from 2011 to 2013.

Reena Jana

Reena Jana

Contributing Editor

Reena Jana has written for the New York Times, Wired, Harvard Business Review online, Fast Company, Architectural Record, Artforum, Time Out New York, Harper's Bazaar, and GQ. Previously, she was the innovation department editor at BusinessWeek. She holds degrees from Columbia University and Barnard College.

Follow her on Twitter.

Reena Jana

Reena Jana

Reena occasionally consults with companies, and when her writing discusses a corporation or other organization with which she has worked, she will disclose this fact. Reena does not hold any investments in the companies she covers.

She writes for SmartPlanet and is not an employee of CBS.

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Larger window please
Good article highlighting another cost society pays for its lack of wholeness by its loss of greater artistic expression and enjoyment. Hopefully we will grow out of this in the centuries ahead.

While great design is always wanted and needed, existing inequities effectively prevents it from being well supported and flourishing. I think of knock-offs as an early clinical sign of dis-ease shown in every form and aspect of enterprise not grounded in integrity and good governance and existing within an unhealthy environment.

The article referenced above and the ensuring comments begin to round out the conversation and are worth reading.
Posted by Bernard Shanfield
30th May
0 Votes
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The problem is cost......
The bottom line is the bottom line on this. Sorry, I will not pay thousands of dollars for an outfit or a chair or what have you.

Now in general, I don't buy knock-offs, because the designer items are usually ugly or uncomfortable. I generally like a lot of non-designer items better anyway, so I will save my money and use it on going places, doing things. After all experiences are one thing that can never be taken away by flood, fire, etc. Things like this can and quite often are destroyed by various events in our lives.
Posted by cmwade1977
30th May
0 Votes
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But how?
Other than patents, are there copyrights for manufactured goods in effect anywhere? And if there are, what are the prospects for an international consensus for enforcing these copyrights across borders?
Posted by theotherwill
30th May
0 Votes
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Knockoffs?
Try this:

Spend countless hours designing and developing something. Then, when you have a producti you can sell, someone copies your design and sells it for a fraction of the cost of your item.

Sure puts a crimp on people coming up with new and better designs.
Posted by bb_apptix
4th Jun
0 Votes
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The real thing vrs Knockoffs vrs ilegall copies
I agree that bigger efforts should be taken to protect intellectual property, but I have some reflexions for you:
If the "knockoff" is not a copy, but it is a "inspired by" product, is it bad?
I really think that if you make an exact copy and brand it as if it its original, then you are doing wrong, wherever you brake the law or not.
But lets think about this:
Is not the original 1006 Emeco an almost exact replica of a wood chair?. IIRC, the inventor was not good at designing furniture, but he was very good at making things, mostly metallic. Was he "stealing" the design? Is almost everyone partially copying others when designing most, not all, furniture? (because all have to be designed by standards, and most of them have 4 legs, same seat heights, and other equivalent features just to be functional)
Also, another important point; the Emeco discussion gained importance with the current Chinese versions, basically because of its price, easily 5 times or more less.... but, what did Emeco said when at is first glory time, in the 50-60's, when other American companies presented their obviously copied versions, like Goodform, Ohio Chair and Art Metal... Just because they are American then it is different? or maybe the difference in their price was not that great?
Quality is another thing. Its known that Emeco chairs will last a life time while the Chinese versions don't, its known that Emeco finishes are better, etc... but while one has not been deceived and is aware that is buying a lower quality product to benefit from lower prices, then, should it be okay?
Posted by panch8
4th Jun
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